On a street in Rio's Ipanema beach neighborhood, Juju Maravilha, dressed in a sultry gold and green sequined gown topped off by a headdress of yellow feathers, takes less than five seconds to ponder a question.
"The soul of Carnival? Why it is here, darling," he coos, pointing at a crowd of thousands gathered for one of Rio de Janeiro's more than 200 informal street marches that give life to the yearly bacchanal of music, flesh, dance and drink.
The showcase event of Rio's Carnival is undoubtedly the two-night parades put on by traditional samba schools _ ornate spectacles costing up to $2.5 million each with thousands of drummers, dancers and …
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